Fundu Lagoon, Pemba

Nestled amongst the lush and tropical Zanzibar Archipelago, the island of Pemba is a quiet and remote place; accessible via a short caravan flight from Zanzibar mainland. The flight is exciting in itself; our luck with clear weather showcases the coral reefs and stretching sandbanks that make up the islands along this remote edge of the Indian ocean. Having landed on Pemba island, reaching the elusive Fundu Lagoon takes even further venture; an hour’s drive along Pemba’s rough and uneven roads (with at least one sharp, sudden drop off, courtesy of a bridge collapse), followed by a short boat ride, and you find yourself at the very tippy end of an expansive wooden jetty; over 200 meters in length, well-worn and faded by the salt air and pulses of the tide. 

The entire setting of Fundu Lagoon is something out of a story book; the white sands are clear and untouched, and thick trees just about camouflage the hotel chalets; giving the impression of arriving at an almost-deserted island. As you walk along the jetty to reach reception, the warmth and soul of the hotel is apparent; with decorative, yet understated furnishing that we come to recognize form the foundation of Fundu Lagoon. Appreciation for nature, and its integration in elegant, neutral tones. 

Our visit to Fundu was long-planned and we counted down the days excitedly and somewhat impatiently. It was an opportunity for a reunion with friends from around the world; many of whom we had not seen in the years since they left Tanzania. Martie and Rusty, a South African couple who are employed at Fundu, are also close friends, and waste no time making us feel home and plying us with drinks and cocktails upon arrival. Welcome greetings are interspersed with laughs and tight hugs as we catch up on the last few months whilst they have been at the resort, and as other friends arrive.

Background

Fundu Lagoon has a far-stretching history. Its roots are firmly planted in the mid-nineties, when Ellis Flyte, one of the original founders, first visited Zanzibar. Over the next several years, and as the result of many visits to Tanzania, India, Morocco and the UK, Fundu Lagoon was furnished with beautiful décor, and had their soft opening in October 1999. Since then, there has been no stopping them; the remote island haven has grown in popularity exponentially, and is a favorite for honeymooners, wedding parties, and intimate couples’ retreats. 

The Setting

Fundu offers a number of different room tiers, however all possess the classic elegance of tented safari camps. With only 18 guest rooms spread across the property, complete privacy is maintained, and each room offers a spectacular view of the Indian Ocean and the foliage from the surrounding jungle. 

  • Standard Hillside Rooms
  • Standard Beachfront Rooms
  • Beach Suite
  • Jungle Suite
  • Superior Suites 

All of the rooms are serviced with running hot water, towels plusher than those I use in my own home, and oversized, canopy netting. With netted windows and the coastal breeze trickling through the night, sleeping in one of these beds is reminiscent of sleeping on the beach itself. There’s something tangible, yet indescribable, about sleeping in the open air without a single worry. 

One of Fundu’s suites. Picture from FL website

Activities

For those who fancy exploration on their retreats, Fundu Lagoon provides a range of activities for travelers interested in seeing more of the island.

  • Snorkelling/Scuba. Fundu Lagoon’s Dive 710 has achieved recognition as a PADI five-star resort, and the waters surrounding Pemba are some of the most exciting in the world. Expansive stretches of reef and steep coral drop-offs create the perfect environment for both snorkeling and scuba trips, led by the capable team at the dive center. There are 25 recognized dive sites surrounding Pemba; more than enough to keep even the most capable divers satisfied for the course of your stay. 
  • Fishing. Led by Fundu’s very capable staff on one of their resident boats, fishing near the resort is steady and reliable, and many guests return with stories of their open ocean catches and near-misses. Fundu takes environmental conservation seriously, and so only fish approved by government regulations are allowed to be kept.
  • Dolphin Tours. Spotted consistently near the coastline, resident dolphins pass through the waters near Fundu as part of their near-daily routine. Staff from the dive center have these routes almost perfectly memorized, and pre-breakfast boat rides are a solid choice for those wishing to spot them. If you can, take a thermos of coffee, and a reliable camera or smart phone; the pods cruise along the wake of the boat; not something to be missed!
  • SUP/Kayak. Available for borrow from the beach facilities, lazy paddles to the end of the jetty and around the Fundu inlet make for a beautiful self-guided sunset tour. 
  • Swimming pools. The Suites at Fundu have their own private pools for guests to enjoy, and for those without private pools, a large 2m-deep infinity pool is open to all guests at the highest point of the resort. With views of the ocean and surrounding forest, it is the perfect place to relax and share scuba and fishing stories. 
  • Spa. Just in case all of the relaxing has worn you out; there is a fully-equipt spa next to the pool. Make an appointment with reception for manicures, pedicures, massages, facials, and all manner of body scrubs. Olivia, a professional masseuse, is charming company, and loves to share stories with guests. 

Travelling with kids? 

Fundu Lagoon provides a tranquil and deeply-relaxing location for people to unwind. As part of this intention, small children are not typically catered for. This makes it a perfect location for honeymooning couples, romantic getaways, and restorative retreats.

The Verdict

As we sit on the deck in Fundu’s restaurant area, sipping a glass of wine, it’s not hard to see why people love this place, and return year after year. The remoteness and beautiful simplicity of the location helps guests to disconnect from reality for a short while, whilst the warmth of the staff makes it feel like home. With small creature comforts tucked away into each corner, so streamlined you might miss them, it feels as though they have anticipated any and every need that could arise during the course of your stay. Fundu Lagoon is a place that you can easily visit over and over, and each time tap into the magic that comes naturally to this small island resort, hidden deep in the East African tropics.

To make enquiries and see the magic for yourself, contact Fundu on reservations@fundulagoon.com

We visited Fundu Lagoon at our own expense, and this review reflects genuine and heartfelt opinions regarding the resort, it’s staff, and location. 

Please note that this is not a sponsored post. If you would like us to review your resort, restaurant or establishment, please contact me on hello@thejdmo.com

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